Sylvester Stallone's Patek Philippe Grand Master Chime ref. 6300G, along with a few other watches from his collection, are being sold by Sotheby's in New York this week, and any self-respecting report of this week's auctions should probably lead with this fact. It's Patek's most complicated watch (20 complications) and the first to ever appear at auction. And it comes from Stallone, a real A-lister and certified watch guy probably most known for his relationship with Panerai.

It's also a coup for Sotheby's, who brought over Stallone after he sold a few watches through Phillips in 2020. It's a cool story, and Stallone speaks eloquently on YouTube about all the watches he's selling via Sotheby's and how a random encounter with Gregg Allman (of the Allman Brothers) got him hooked on watches. In the video, Stallone shows the 6300G still in its seal, and some have raised an eyebrow at the fact that he never wore it.

"I bought this as a collector," Stallone says in the video. "I treat it the way you'd treat a painting… it's a work of art." Would it have been badass to see Rambo wearing around a 6300? You bet. But I'm not gonna knock the guy for never wearing a watch, and not just because Sly's neck is probably thicker than my arms. His story feels like it comes from a place of passion – having been closely associated with watches for 30 years, no doubt he's developed a love for these things.

Anyway, Stallone is a mega-movie action star, and he's also selling a Nautilus 5711/1300A (that's the green dial with diamonds) and a few other watches. He calls his chunky Panerai, Rolex, and Patek watches "door knockers" – a term I find immediately endearing – and since my tastes are decidedly more wimpy, I also wanted to talk about a few of my favorite watches across the New York sales this week, along with one "buyer beware."

The First Rolex Oyster Chronograph

Let's stay at Sotheby's for a couple watches that would probably fit best on Stallone's pinky finger. The Rolex Zerograph is important for a bunch of reasons. It was the first Oyster chronograph, the first Rolex with a rotating bezel, and the first with an in-house chronograph movement.

It's also one of the rarest finds in all of vintage Rolex, with less than 10 having ever surfaced. Even better, this one comes fresh to market, recently discovered in California. Not a lot is known about the Zerograph – they're thought to have been prototypes, which would explain why they're not in catalogs or ads. A super cool piece of Rolex history, all packed into just 32mm. 

Sotheby's has an estimate of $50–100,000 on this ref 3346, but for reference, another example was sold at Monaco Legend for €266,500.

Super Early Patek Philippe 96 In Steel

From an important piece of Rolex history to one from Patek. Most already know the Ref. 96 Calatrava as the first Calatrava and the first serially produced watch from Patek. It's even known as "the watch that saved Patek," if we want to get dramatic about it.

The 96 was produced for almost 40 years, but the first series is distinguishable because they used a tiny LeCoultre ebauche that Patek had initially ordered for pendant watches. Because of the Great Depression, some of these movements sat unused for years until Patek fit them in their first Calatrava.

This watch was sold in 1936 and uses one of those JLC movements. Even better, it's in steel and has its beautiful, original sector dial. It's about as attractive and rare as it gets for a 96. Like the Zerograph, it comes from the family of the original owner and is about as small as one of Stallone's fingernails. 

This 96 has an estimate of $30,000–50,000, but also, like the Zerograph, it's hard to predict where it might end up. It's important, rare, and beautiful. But it's also small, niche, super old, a little beat up, but original. In other words, everything I love in a vintage watch. 

Speaking of, there's one more small watch with provenance to mention: a tiny square Cartier with beautiful enamel inlay on the case that was given to American General John Pershing, consigned directly from the Pershing family. There's this urban legend that General Pershing received the first-ever Cartier Tank directly from Louis Cartier in 1918, but there seems to be little evidence that was actually true. So here it is: The Pershing Cartier (est. $20–50,000). 

Sotheby's is also auctioning a unique version of the Toledano & Chan B1 that the new brand introduced just last month. Made with a carbon fiber case flecked with copper, it has an estimate of $6,000–12,000.

Philippe Dufour Duality

Let's pop down to Phillips because their headliner is one of the best modern watches from an independent watchmaker, a Philippe Dufour Duality.

Introduced in 1996, the Duality was the first wristwatch to have a double escapement using two independent balance wheels. Theoretically, this makes for a more accurate watch as the balances average out their rates. Just a few years later, it inspired Journe to revisit his Resonance, which he released at the turn of the century. 

Originally, Dufour planned on making 25, but because the Duality is so hard to make, assemble, and adjust, he only made nine. If you really wanna know how it works, we've got you. 

Phillips sold two other Duality examples in 2022 (pink gold, $4 million) and in 2017 (No. 00, platinum, $915,000). This example is white gold and also comes with an additional lacquer dial and Breguet hands. Est. $800,000 to $1.6 million.

Also in the land of indies, the Hajime Asaoka Tourbillon prototype No. 0 is an insane watch that should pass its estimate of $120–240,000. 

There are a few other random watches I enjoyed seeing in the Phillips catalog that, while not headliners, I thought worthy of a postscript:

First is the Roger Dubuis Hommage Condottieri (lot 78, est. $20,000–40,000). I wrote about this watch last year, and it might be the best Dubuis ever made. Basically, take everything you know about and associate with modern Roger Dubuis and picture the exact opposite – that's what the Hommage Condottieri is. Enamel dial, Bulletin D'Observatoire, Geneva Seal. I could go on about it, and indeed, I already have, so check out this article if you want more.

There's also a Reverso Minute Repeater, a limited edition from 1994. Beginning with the Reverso's 60th anniversary in 1991, JLC introduced a run of six limited edition Reversos with each of six "traditional complications" through the rest of the decade, all limited to 500 pieces. This minute repeater is an excellent size, with a movement by watchmaker Eric Coudray. I keep meaning to do a complete story about this run of '90s Reversos – consider yourself warned!

I dunno, I figured I'd include this Heuer Seafarer retailed by Abercrombie (lot 102, est. $15–30,000) after realizing I remembered it from Christie's 2017 American Icons sale (the sale where Jackie Kennedy's Tank sold). Anyway, back then, it sold for $60,000. This time around, Phillips has a conservative estimate of $15,000–30,000. There are a lot of watches across the NY sales that you can trace the sale history of, but these Seafarers are awesome and don't get enough love – I hope this one does well. 

Finally, if big, bad, old split-seconds chronographs are your thing, this Ulysse Nardin split seconds from 1915 is an absolute beast. It's a 52mm wristwatch with a high-grade pocket watch movement with Guillaume balance wheel inside. Importantly, it's not a pocket watch that was re-cased as a wristwatch (ew!). It's one of just two known, the other in steel – drool – and if you're one of those people who thinks something like a Universal Geneve Cairelli split seconds is the ultimate in vintage chronography, it might be time to reconsider. 

A Quick Drive By On This Patek 1578GM ("General Motors")

The story of the Patek Philippe 1578GM is one of my favorite in vintage watches. Throughout the '50s, about 20 Pateks were given to big-time General Motors execs, typically for 25 years of service. It might even be the only example of Patek adding a company's name to a reference number and commissioning a watch like this. The Wenger case has angular downturned lugs, but the 1578GM is set apart from a stock 1578 thanks to its black dial and radial Arabic numerals. Only a dozen or so have ever appeared – a few years ago, I went through the brain damage of documenting all the publicly-sold examples.

Anyway, I was excited to see what looked like a Patek 1578GM at Christie's this week, but at second glance, it's more of a buyer beware. While the dial is black, it doesn't look like what's generally accepted as a legit and original 1578GM dial. Note, in particular, the different small-seconds layout and the stick hands (usually, the 1578GM has leaf hands). Over the years, I've seen a few stock 1578s trying to masquerade as the rarer (and more expensive) 1578GM, and this feels like another one of those. 

Worse yet, Christie's copy-pasted its lot description from the last (legit) 1578GM it sold back in 2017. Images for the current lot clearly show a caseback engraved "C.F. Kirkland." But the lot essay says, "The present watch belonged to Mr. K. P. Smith. The caseback of the watch reads GMC. GMOO, K.P. SMITH, 1934-1964." However, the 2017 example Christie's sold was K.P. Smith's, not this one. Whoops! 

This would just be an innocent little copy-paste mistake, but with a watch like the 1578GM that's driven by its history, it'd be helpful to have the story of the owner, a letter of provenance, or something (anything!) showing that this watch is what it says it is. For what it's worth, this doesn't look like an example of an auction house being nefarious but of being understaffed. 

Finally, I'm told top billing at Christie's is a Richard Mille Tourbillon Sapphire RM56-02 with an estimate of $3–5 million. It's a limited edition of just ten from 2015 that feels like one of the most RM RMs, and if you're asking yourself if you should spend your hard-earned millions on this or on Sly's Grandmaster Chime, then I think the only reasonable question is: why not both? 

Sotheby's Important Watches is June 5, with an online sale ending June 11; Phillips New York Watch Auction: X is June 8–9; Christie's Important Watches is June 10, with an online sale ending June 14.

Your Weekly Shop Brief

Last week, we saw a few new arrivals from G-SHOCK including a black and red MR-G Frogman and the brand's latest take on its aviation-inspired Gravitymaster series. Unveiled at the beginning of this year, we now have stock of Zenith's new green-hued Chronomaster Sport. 

On the Pre-Owned side of the shop, this Rolex Sea-Dweller Deepsea can be dropped to the bottom of the Mariana Trench and live to tell the tale. For OMEGA De Ville fans, this Prestige Co-Axial Chronometer offers impressive stylistic versatility at a more than competitive price. 

Six Shop Picks We Love That Aren’t Watches

While this column is typically reserved for highlighting a specific theme of watches in the shop every week, this week, your humble writer is in the mood to shake things up. Since this is This Week In The Shop after all, I have decided to explore the road less traveled a la a selection of items that are not watches for today's episode. Yes, many of them are still watch-related, but watches in and of themselves they are not. Additionally, I've tried my best to pick things on both the low-ticket and high-end ends of the price spectrum for added variety. Without further ado, let's get on with it, shall we?

Brown Leather Case For Two Watches

Smooth, sleek, and made of buttery soft brown leather, this watch case is sturdy enough to store your more precious watch cargo on any upcoming summer travel you might have planned. The rectangular shape features two pieces that slide together for a snug fit, and allow both watches to lay flat side by side so you don't have to worry about any accidental bumping or scratching. Oh, and did I mention it's handmade in Tuscany? Ooh la la. And, as a quick aside, if you are looking for something a little more compact to store your watches in a suitcase, I will point you in the direction of this leather case. Smooth, sleek, and made of supple brown leather, this watch case is sturdy enough to store your more precious watch cargo on any upcoming summer travel you might have planned.

'A Journey Into The Deep' By John Goldberger

Given that we're entering summer, a book with a slightly nautical theme seems fitting. Told by the famed collector, Rolex expert, and watch industry titan John Goldberger, A Journey Into The Deep is a meticulous exploration of Rolex's intertwined history with the world of underwater exploration. 

Over its 132 glossy pages, you'll find over 400 photographs that accompany stories that encompass the complete chronology of Rolex's storied relationship with dive-ready tool watches, complete with esoteric references and granular development details that speak to the watch nerd in all of us.

The Kusaba Smooth Calfskin Watch Strap

While our selection of NATO straps might have been the more obvious choice given the warmer weather, I think there's something to be said about pairing dress watches with a lighter-colored leather strap during spring and summer. As its name suggests, this strap is made of soft calfskin leather that gets even more supple as it's worn in, and works well with just about any piece you pair it with. Sometimes, it's nice to treat yourself to a new strap staple. If your current strap rotation is looking a little worn out, now's the time…

Leica M11 Silver Chrome Finish

Here, my friend, we've arrived at the priciest pick on the list in the form of a meticulously crafted rangefinder camera from Leica. Its compact build and easy-focussing rangefinder system make the brand's M series a great option for expert and amateur photographers alike, and its overall discreetness is great for just about any situation, whether you're looking to flex your street photography skills or just document your life with something a bit more elevated than the camera on your smartphone. The M11 is equipped with a remarkably more robust battery life than its predecessor, up to 60-megapixel resolution, a shutter speed of up to 1/16,000th of a second, and features an aluminum top plate with a scratch-resistant finish. It's also available in all-black if that's more your speed. 

Green Classic Swiss Army Knife With Spring Bar Tool

For under $30, this handy dandy Swiss Army Knife might be the most affordable on the list, but it's also the most multi-functional. In one compact case, this tool has the typical arrangement of folding blades, screwdrivers, and scissors to be expected from a classic Swiss Army Knife, and has a spring bar tool for changing watch straps on the go. Easily hook it onto your keys to keep it with you wherever you go. Just don't forget it in your carry-on luggage if you're traveling – you might run into a problem with a TSA agent.

Rapport London Portobello Three Watch Box In Green

Closing out this roundup with another green-hued pick, this bright emerald watch box is made to make traveling with a selection of your watch collection simple and is elegant enough to store on your dresser or nightstand at home. Hexagonal in shape, this box is constructed with a wooden interior structure covered with vibrant green-grained leather with a cream-colored suede lining. Inspired by London's vibrant Notting Hill neighborhood, this cheerful watch box keeps up to three watches safe and secure and features a push-button opening that elegantly displays your pieces.

What We Know

TAG Heuer has just unveiled the latest generation of the brand's popular Aquaracer Professional 300 diver. These new models offer the option of either a date or a GMT complication, and both function sets are now housed in a newly downsized 42mm steel case.

With the continued growth of the Aquaracer, including the 40mm Solargraph 200 and the 45mm Professional 1000, the 300 has long represented the conventional core of the modern Aquaracer line and this refresh does little to disturb the status quo as the 2024 Aquaracer Professional 300 will be offered in three dial colors (black, blue, and green) and buyers have their choice of either a date-equipped version or one with a date and a GMT function. 

As mentioned above, for any of the options, this latest gen is 42mm wide, down from 43mm in the previous generation. The thickness for the date-equipped model is just 12mm, while the GMT is a bit thicker at 13.45mm. Lug to lug for any of the models is 48mm, leading to what should be a largely wearable watch with standard proportions for a 42mm case width. 

Regardless of the spec, the Aquaracer Pro 300 uses a version of TAG Heuer's TH31 automatic movement, which has a five-year warranty. The movement offers 80 hours of power reserve, ticks at 4 Hz, and is COSC-certified for timekeeping. For the date models, the movement is the TH31-00, and for the GMT, it's the TH31-03. Given the novelty of the release, I don't have any hands-on experience with the TH31-03. I asked TAG Heuer if the movement functions as a flyer or a caller (local jumping vs independent 24-hour hand) but have not heard back before the time of publishing. While I will update this paragraph once I have additional clarity, previous generations of the Aquaracer GMT used caller-style movements like the Caliber 7 GMT, which was based on the ETA 2892 architecture.

Pricing starts at $3,600 for the black or the blue date model on a rubber strap. A date model on a bracelet will set you back $3,800. For the GMT, pricing starts at $4,000 on the rubber or $4,200 on a bracelet. 

What We Think

Way back in 2011, I was the proud owner of a then-current-gen Aquaracer 300, a WAN2110. With a black dial and bezel and a nicely tapered bracelet, it was a great dive watch with a 41.5mm case that was 12mm thick. In many ways, it would seem that this 2024 release is the closest that TAG Heuer has come to replicating that model, albeit with a higher level of refinement, a better movement, and a more considerable price tag. 

Apart from the sizing – which feels like a smart move to me – I still really like the 12-sided bezel (in ceramic rather than the aluminum of my older model), and the dial is also quite nicely done with a texture that replicates the surface of rippling water without being overly gimmicky. Water resistance holds at, predictably, 300 meters, and the watch is finished with a solid case back.

So, in some ways, a lot has changed since 2011, and not much has changed since 2011. One element that has absolutely changed is that the MSRP of my WAN2110 was about $2,400 back in 2010. Fourteen years later, we have an Aquaracer Pro 300 that starts at $3,600. For the difference, you're getting a bracelet with tool-less micro adjust, a ceramic bezel, a much more complicated dial design, and a COSC-certified movement. 

All that accounted for, TAG Heuer still has its work cut out for it at the $3,500-$4,500 space as the Aquaracer will need to compete with the likes of Tudor's Black Bay line, the continued popularity of the Longines Spirit Line, and models from enthusiast favs such as Sinn, Oris, and Grand Seiko. 

While I would still put my own cash towards the titanium version of the Solargraph 200, I dig these latest Aquaracers from TAG Heuer and appreciate that they have downsized the case while maintaining much of what makes the 300 Professional the core of the Aquaracer lineup. 

The Basics

Brand: TAG Heuer
Model: Aquaracer Professional 300 Date, Aquaracer Professional 300 GMT
Reference Number:
WBP5110.FT6257 (date, black dial, strap)
WBP5111.FT6259 (date, blue dial, strap)
WBP5110.BA0013 (date, black dial, bracelet)
WBP5111.BA0013 (date, blue dial, bracelet)
WBP5116.BA0013 (date, green dial, bracelet).

WBP5114.FT6259 (GMT, blue/black, rubber)
WBP5114.BA0013 (GMT, blue/black, bracelet)
WBP5115.BA0013 (GMT, green, bracelet)

Diameter: 42mm
Thickness: 12mm (date), 13.45mm (GMT)
Lug-to-lug: 48mm
Case Material: Steel
Dial Color: Various (see above)
Indexes: Applied
Lume: Super-LumiNova
Water Resistance: 300 meters
Strap/Bracelet: Rubber strap or steel bracelet

The Movement

Caliber: TH31-00 (date), TH31-03 (GMT)
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date (plus GMT for GMT-equipped models)
Power Reserve: 80 hours
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 VPH (4 Hz)
Chronometer Certified: Yes, COSC

Pricing & Availability

Price: $3,600 (Date, rubber), $3,800 (Date, bracelet), $4,000 (GMT, rubber), $4,200 (GMT, bracelet)
Availability: June 2024

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Hodinkee is an authorized retailer of TAG Heuer watches, explore the collection here.

TAG Heuer is part of the LVMH group. Although LVMH Luxury Ventures is a minority investor in Hodinkee, we maintain complete editorial independence.

What We Know

Every year for the last five, on June 1, Oris has released a 250-piece limited edition to celebrate the registration of its company in Hölstein, Switzerland, on June 1, 1904. So let us be the first to wish you a happy 120th birthday, Oris; I hope I look half as good as you at that age. Oris says it uses these Hölstein Editions to make watches that are cool (see 2023 or 2022) but would probably never otherwise appear in their regular catalog. This year continues that trend with a new blacked-out, DLC-coated Divers Sixty-Five. 

The Oris Divers Sixty-Five Hölstein Edition 2024 uses the brand's familiar retro diver platform, but everything is black. The 40mm case is a blacked-out DLC-coated steel. The dial, lume, and hands are black, too. Ditto for the rubber strap and DLC-coated buckle. Did we miss anything? Bezel, crown, and caseback are also DLC-coated. It's the first time Oris has made an all-black watch. 

Inside is the Hölstein brand's manufacture caliber 400 with its high anti-magnetism and five-day power reserve. Register your watch, and you'll also get a 10-year warranty. 

The 2024 Hölstein Edition will be available in boutiques, dealers, and Oris' website beginning June 1. MSRP is CHF 3,900 (~$4,300). As with each of these limited editions, Oris will make 250 numbered pieces. 

What We Think

"The reason is there is not really a reason," Oris co-CEO Rolf Studer says in the press release introducing the blacked-out Divers Sixty-Five. I appreciate the candor, and no doubt there's some innate appeal to an all-black watch. It's cool and covert and undercover, and in this case, it's a first for Oris. If this were a general production watch maybe we'd complain about the practicality or legibility of a watch like this. But there are only 250, and surely the enthusiasts that'll run out to scoop these up (it's first-come, first-served!) aren't buying these because they're the most functional divers ever made. 

While the Oris Divers Sixty-Five is a total heritage play, it's fun to see it rendered in a modern feeling, blacked-out version. It kind of reminds me of the Black Bay Ceramic. There's something about the tension of a more contemporary material and a vintage-inspired diver that, sometimes, works just fine. 

The Basics

Brand: Oris
Model: Divers Sixty-Five Hölstein Edition 2024

Diameter: 40mm
Thickness: 12.8mm
Case Material: Black DLC-coated stainless steel
Dial Color: Black
Lume: SuperLumiNova on hands and markers
Water Resistance: 100 meters
Strap/Bracelet: Black rubber tropic-style strap with DLC-coated buckle

The Movement

Caliber: Oris caliber 400
Functions: Date
Diameter: 30mm
Power Reserve: 120 hours
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 4 Hz
Jewels: 21
Chronometer Certified: No; Oris claims accuracy to -3/+5 seconds a day
Additional Details: 10-year warranty available for watch and movement

Pricing & Availability

Price: CHF 3,900 (~$4,300)
Availability: June 2024
Limited Edition: Yes, 250 numbered pieces

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The Hodinkee Shop is an authorized retailer of Oris watches, for more on the new Divers Sixty-Five Hölstein Edition 2024, visit Oris online. 

Ulysse Nardin has been in undisrupted business for 178 years and following a major win at last year's GPHG awards and an impressive novelty launch at Watches & Wonders Geneva last month, the Swiss luxury watchmaker feels more current than ever right now. Last week Ulysse Nardin and retail partner Wempe chose the retro-futuristic NYC gallery of avant-garde lighting designer Apparatus as the location for an intimate gathering of press, collectors and enthusiasts, including Hodinkee editor Mark Kauzlarich.

Guests were first welcomed into the Red Room which was curated with Ulysse Nardin Freak museum pieces and novelties. The Red Room itself was an arresting interior fusing Ms. Vreeland's "Garden in Hell" with Mr. Kubrick's Space Odyssey which was fresh off a buzzy debut at NYCxDesign. Guests enjoyed cocktails and hors d'oeuvres before being ushered into an intriguing adjacent gallery for a convivial Q&A between Mark Kauzlarich and François-Xavier Hotier (known to most as "FX"), the president of Ulysse Nardin Americas. In addition to touching on the brand's origins in crafting award-winning marine chronometers, and its long tradition of producing top-tier examples of haute horlogerie, FX delved into the brand's unique approach to craftsmanship, and what's in store for the future after nearly two centuries as a Manufacture.

This conversation made for the perfect setup for the evening's biggest highlight: the global unveiling of the latest from Ulysse Nardin's OPS capsule collection. Building on the success of the Freak ONE OPS and Freak X OPS, both of which are highly sought after by collectors following their 2023 debuts, the new Diver NET OPS and Diver X Skeleton OPS bring the same tactical look and olive-green colorway to Ulysse Nardin's avant-garde dive watch lineup.

Talking about Ulysse Nardin's most groundbreaking pieces, of course, is no substitute for experiencing them in the metal, and Ulysse Nardin delivered the goods in top form. In addition to the new Diver NET OPS and Diver X Skeleton OPS, a selection of historical and contemporary timepieces, including the original Freak from 2001 and the recently unveiled Freak S Nomad, were available for guests to try on, photograph and admire. Guests were also offered the chance to observe an actual Ulysse Nardin Freak movement being crafted at a live Watchmaking Station, an experience made all the more elevated by the tastings of Louis XIII by Remy Martin cognac on offer.

For those unfamiliar with the legacy and lore of the Freak, the Q&A and watchmaking demo served as an ideal introduction. Launched in 2001, it created a new category as the first "hyperwatch" and has since been recognized as a modern classic of high-end watchmaking, with subsequent models earning accolades including a 2023 GPHG Iconic Watch Prize for the Freak ONE. This year at Watches & Wonders Geneva, Ulysse Nardin captivated a new generation of enthusiasts with its latest generation of the iconic watch, the Freak S Nomad. Featuring a sci-fi dual oscillator movement atop a handcrafted guilloché disc, the watch's artful combination of cutting-edge materials and traditional savoir-faire exemplifies Ulysse Nardin's distinctive aesthetic.

As an innovation and design leader in the luxury watch space, Ulysse Nardin makes a perfect match for Apparatus, both aesthetically and philosophically. Just as Ulysse Nardin curates a bold new experience at the intersection of traditional watchmaking and cutting-edge design, Apparatus specializes in creating modern interiors that combine midcentury inspiration with an array of sinuous shapes and luxurious textures. From the incense wafting subtly from brass orbs around the space to Apparatus' moody industrial-chic palette, the atmosphere was perfectly suited to highlight Ulysse Nardin's singular approach to watchmaking.

This event was produced in partnership with Ulysse Nardin.

What We Know

Today, Audemars Piguet launches the new 23mm "Mini Oak" collection. Self-referential in its re-interpretation of the 20mm Mini Royal Oak from 1997, but brand new in its 2024 packaging. It comes in three iterations: yellow, pink, and white, all with the Frosted Gold finish. Inspired by an ancient Florentine jewelry technique, the frosted gold finish was previously implemented by jewelry designer Carolina Bucci and adapted by Audemars Piguet in 2016 to adorn her collaboration with Royal Oaks. 

The new Mini Oak models pack a lot of design into the small 23mm sizing. The diamond-dust effect of the frosted gold contrasts with the polished bevels that outline the octagonal bezel and the individual links of the tapering bracelet. There is a satin finish on the case and bracelet flanks, adding even more texture to this tiny piece. The solid caseback combines sandblasting, satin brushing, and polishing to echo the case design. The watches feature a tone-on-tone Petite Tapisserie dial with lume-coated gold hour markers that match the color of the case. The hands are also slightly thicker, reminiscent of AP's Offshore diver watches, presumably for legibility and balance. The Audemars Piguet signature at 12 o'clock is printed in black on a cartouche, while the date indication and seconds function have been omitted, again likely to enhance both legibility and to keep the tiny dial as clean as possible. 

The trio of Royal Oak Mini watches are powered by Calibre 2730, a quartz movement with a battery life of over seven years. In addition, the Calibre 2730 is equipped with a "switch": by simply pulling on the crown, the wearer can temporarily deactivate the battery. The Mini is water resistant up to 50 meters. 

In theory, "shrinking" down a Royal Oak might not seem so revelatory, but the Mini is not shrunken down Jumbo, nor is it a rehashing of its 20-29mm 20th-century predecessors. The smaller specs are a direct response to current consumer demand, and the design has been updated to work in a modern context. AP has taken elements of one their most successful modern "women's" releases (Carolina Bucci's 37mm Royal Oak Frosted Gold Selfwinding LE) and implemented the same frosted gold finishing, which is achieved through tiny indentations made on the gold surface using a diamond-tipped tool, creating a sparkly effect similar to that of precious stones. Furthermore, there is nary a gemstone in sight. These are thoroughly modern in their execution.

What We Think

Small watches are trending. This statement shouldn't come as a surprise to anybody in the watch enthusiast space. And, evidently, the brands are listening to what the consumers are asking for. Brynn Wallner, founder of Dimepiece, a platform dedicated to all things women and watches, contributed significantly to the small watch revolution. Wallner should be credited for making giant strides in the teeny tiny watch revival. Her approach was playful, and her TTRO (Teeny Tiny Royal Oak) acronym has stuck, but she was also extremely astute in realizing that there was a gap in the watch market for a size that younger, more fashion-forward types were eager to wear.

If we ask the question: who is this watch for? It becomes a pointless push and pull between an extremely antiquated gender binary mindset and today's fluid fashion vernacular. Frankly, anybody should wear what they damn well please, and one certainly shouldn't be chastised for promoting such a sentiment. Despite the comments section fatigue surrounding the "all watches should be unisex argument," jewelry and adornment are deeply reflective of wider cultural mores. It is the 2024 reality, and the question of size and fluidity exists on a much larger scale in the fashion industry; we are simply seeing a trickle-down effect. And to be blunt, this is exactly what we asked for. And so, the conversation remains relevant.

Perhaps if you peel away the layer of gender, the real issue is the homogeneity in watch design. Too many brands look the same. Are we then surprised that pop stars and actors turn to smaller "ladies'" design-driven watches to stand out? And there's an ease to throwing on a small watch. Spiritually, it's much closer to jewelry. The point isn't to focus on the inside of the case here but to embrace a more frivolous and decorative side to watch-wearing. Ultimately, this watch (and any watch, for that matter) is an accessory. Which is perfectly ok to admit. You can love and respect heritage and technical intricacies, and you can also appreciate small quartz-powered design watches. We aren't picking sides.

Royal Oak acolytes will no doubt embrace the introduction of a mini size. The Royal Oak is an enduring symbol of Genta design, but beyond that, it's a widely recognized design among those who are completely outside of the watch enthusiast community. I have friends who are far removed from the watch space and send me pictures of potential purchases they are considering. I would say about 75% of those pictures include a small-sized vintage Royal Oak. The mini is not just a fun release, it's also a smart business decision. I say keep the small watch fire burning.

The Basics

Brand: Audemars Piguet
Model: Royal Oak Mini Frosted Gold Quartz / 23 mm
Reference Number: 67630BA.GG.1312BA.01; 67630OR.GG.1312OR.01; 67630BC.GG.1312BC.01

Diameter: 23mm
Thickness: 6.6 mm
Case Material: hammered 18-carat yellow gold; hammered 18-carat rose gold; hammered 18-carat white gold.
Dial Color: yellow gold, rose gold, white gold.
Indexes: Applied
Water Resistance: 50m
Strap/Bracelet: Hammered 18-carat gold integrated bracelet with AP folding clasp.

The Movement

Caliber: Quartz Calibre 2730
Functions: hour and minutes
Diameter: 15.7 mm
Thickness: 2.2 mm
Battery life: 94 months
Frequency: 32.768 Hz
Jewels: 4

Pricing & Availability

Price: $34,000 

For more, click here.

What We Know

In 2019, Audemars Piguet launched the Code 11.59 collection, which was positioned as an alternative to the Royal Oak (after discontinuing the Jules Audemars and Millenary lines over the years prior). A year later came the [RE]Master01, a new chronograph inspired by a 1940s watch made by Audemars Piguet, limited to 500 pieces. With the new release, it seemed like AP would lean into its heritage in a way that would show the brand to be what vintage collectors already know – not just "The Royal Oak Company." Then—*crickets*. The "collection," as it was, was not even listed on the brand's "collections" landing page.  Four years later, we have a new [RE]Master, and it's certainly very different from the first. 

Shaped watches are all the rage (again). The [RE]Master02 is proof in the metal, inspired by a rare reference from AP, the ref. 5159BA with a 27.5mm diameter yellow gold case produced in only 7 pieces. The original was part of an effort from 1959 to 1963 where AP made a very small number of asymmetrical cases – 30 in total.

The new watch is made of AP's Sand Gold and is substantially larger – 41mm by 9.7mm thick with 30m of water resistance. We first saw that material in the Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked earlier this year. The dial is no longer a flat, plain surface but rather done in the iconic "Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50" of the Jumbo Royal Oak. That color is done with Physical Vapor Deposition (PVD) before the dial is segmented into twelve different triangles, each decorated with a linear satin finish and separated by lines of sand gold that act as hour markers and match the sand gold hands. The case is brushed and sharply faceted, in what AP calls a "tribute to Brutalism." The crystal is cut to follow the shape of the case, giving a bit of distortion when viewed from an angle, which is a part of the charm.

Inside is the automatic Caliber 7129, based on the 7121 launched in 2022 on the Royal Oak "Jumbo" Extra-Thin models. The movement measures only 2.8mm thick, which means most of the thickness of the watch is for the effect of its shape. The movement gives about 52 hours of power reserve. Pricing for the [RE]Master02 has been set at $47,200, and the watch will only be available in a 250-piece limited edition – half the number of the [RE]Master01.

What We Think

If you had asked me earlier this year which watch AP would do next for a [RE]Master, it might have been a while before I landed on this watch. Yes, shaped watches are all the rage now – so much so that the Crash has become "pedestrian" in the words of at least one prominent voice whose name rhymes with Ben Clymer. We even recently saw a brand new brand – Toledano & Chan – launch with an architectural-inspired watch. 

But with a deep history to draw from (including watches like the John Schaeffer, "Ciocolatones", "Disco Volantes," and awesome calendar chronographs with multi-color dials, there were plenty of options for Audemars Piguet. This, however, is probably the boldest (and, in that way, smartest) option to pick up the [RE]Master line. I won't even get into arguing about the "brutalist" terminology, but really, there's no time like the present to get on the "shaped-watch train."

When I was in Milan, the brand showed this watch to clients, though I didn't see it myself. I had heard from a few people that the 41mm case of the new [RE]Master02 is quite large. There's something to be said for the fact that these older, shaped watches are so successful because their boldness comes from design and elegance and not size. But that said, I'm very intrigued to finally see it in person.

It's encouraging to see the use of sand gold so quickly after unveiling the first product with the material. Sure, this is a 250-piece limited edition, but at least the brand isn't completely keeping the new metal behind a lock and key to be seen once every decade. My hope is that AP will start making the [RE]Master collection a priority again. Four years was too long to wait between releases. Despite the fact that the Code 11.59 line is beginning to hit its stride and acknowledging that technically, there are three separate collections of Royal Oaks (the mainline, Offshore, and Concept), it would be great to see AP be a brand with three core pillars to stand on. They've certainly got the back catalog to prove it's possible.

The Basics

Brand: Audemars Piguet
Model: [RE]Master02
Reference Number: 15240SG.OO.A347CR.01

Diameter: 41mm
Thickness: 9.7mm
Case Material: Sand gold
Dial Color: Segmented "Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50" dial with linear satin finishing and sand gold lines
Indexes: Sand gold radial lines for the hours
Lume: None
Water Resistance: 30m
Strap/Bracelet: Alligator leather strap in contrasting shades of blue with matt finishing and 18-carat sand gold pin buckle.

The Movement

Caliber: Calibre 7129
Functions: Hours and minutes
Diameter: 29.6mm
Thickness: 2.8mm
Power Reserve: 52 hours
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations/hour
Jewels: 31
Chronometer Certified: No

Pricing & Availability

Price: $47,200
Availability: Now
Limited Edition: Yes, 250 pieces

For more, click here.

What We Know

Earlier this week, Richard Mille and Rafael "Rafa" Nadal marked 14 years of their partnership with a new release: The RM 27-05 Flying Tourbillon. The RM 27 series is a huge pillar in the Richard Mille legacy. The original RM 027 was launched in 2010 by way of tennis phenom Rafa Nadal's wrist, entering the brand into the field of ultra-sportswear. The series has only since continued to evolve in lightweightness, robustness, and all-round out-of-this-world-ness.

For a little timeline refresher, let's consider the series' key mechanical feats. Naturally, the journey started with a very lightweight goal, and the RM 027 came in at less than 20 grams. Two years later, the RM 27-01 and its fully suspended movement came in at 18.83 grams. In 2015, a new case architecture was introduced for the RM 27-02, which carried over to the 2017 RM 27-03, which was decked out in the colors of the Spanish flag and capable of withstanding 10,000 gs of shock resistance. Then, in 2020, we saw a tennis-inspired movement design from the RM 27-04 that could withstand an incredible 12,000 gs of shock.

So how do you develop the next best "second skin" watch in the series for a 22-time Grand Slam champion? Well, you focus, yet again, on lightweightedness. The RM 27-05, a limited edition of 80 pieces, features a monoblock case made of Carbon TPT® B.4, a new material at Richard Mille. Initially used in Formula 1, the specific weave of this composite optimizes the material's strength-to-weight ratio when machined. Compared to standard Carbon TPT, this new composite is 4% denser, its fibers are 15% stiffer, and the resin is 30% more resistant. These qualities make it possible to machine thinner pieces for the case and thus lighten the whole endeavor without sacrificing rigidity.

The RM 27-05 now holds the brand's lightweight record, weighing 11,5 grams (without its strap). Coming in at a very slim 7.20 mm, it also houses an extra-flat movement. Benefiting from the innovations of the RM UP-01 Ultraflat Ferrari Caliber, there are no screws holding the movement and case together. The entire mechanism sits inside the monobloc caseback, topped by the flange, the bezel, and the crystal. These put pressure on the caliber to hold it firmly in place. Every milligram or millimeter has been pared away from the skeletonized movement and case walls. It is a whole 0.6mm thinner than RM 67-02 extra flat – however, the caliber, unlike the automatic 67-02, is manual winding.

The RM 27-05 movement contains a single-sided (flying) tourbillon, technology we've seen before in watches such as the RM66.  Thanks to a base fitted with ball bearings, the tourbillon can keep doing its thing without a traditional bridge. Removing bridges obviously reduces the weight, but how does it hold up for a timepiece that is going to be subjected to so many violent shocks? The casing and positioning of the caliber is 5/100ths of a millimeter from the back on six support points for maximum rigidity. 

Aesthetically, this watch is a little tamer in its casing. The movement is where all of the action takes place. The sweeping arc that hangs over the entire caliber recalls the bridges on the RM 27-02. And when the tourbillon is lined up with the bridges on the RM 27-05, I can't help but think it looks like a wishbone.

The RM 27-05 obviously underwent a gauntlet of insane tests, which the RM team refers to as the 'Nadal.' The watch is subjected to a series of vertical and horizontal shocks with accelerations of up to 300 gs. Ouch. Pricing is also a bit of a shock, with the RM 27-05 carrying a price tag of $1,150,000. 

What We Think

The point here isn't to create an ultra-accessible product. The point is to create a watchmaking marvel that works for a superstar athlete. Rafa can wear a flying tourbillon on the tennis court and feel comfortable doing it, too.

The RM27 series watches are the top of the totem pole for ultra-light sport watches, and with every release, they just become shockingly lighter. This is the kind of RM that reminds naysayers what all the fuss is about. If you're not a fan of the irony and whimsey that comes courtesy of watches like Smiley or the Bon Bon collection, then perhaps you can simply marvel at the technical specs of a cutting-edge watch like the RM 27-05. 

Of course, in watchmaking, Richard Mille sits at the extreme end of the spectrum, both technically and aesthetically. It's not for everybody, and it's not meant to be. Personally, I like my RMs a little more divisive design-wise. As far as RMs go, aesthetically, this one takes a little more of a sober approach, mirroring the more subdued (if we can call anything made by RM subdued?!) design of the original RM 027.

Perhaps this was an intentional move in order to focus on the sheer insanity of the specs? Or perhaps this is the brand's way to close on the 14-year-long RM Rafa series? RM states that this is the beginning of a new phase for the partnership. Here's hoping Nadal rises to the occasion of this summer's Olympic games after being knocked out of the French Open after the first round on Monday. We still love you Rafa!

The Basics

Brand: Richard Mille
Model: Richard Mille RM 27-05 Flying Tourbillon Rafael Nadal

Diameter: 37.25mm x 47.25mm
Thickness: 7.20mm
Case Material: Carbon TPT
Water Resistance: 10 meters
Strap/Bracelet: black textile 

The Movement

Caliber: RM27-05
Functions: Hours, minutes, tourbillon
Diameter: 32.75 x 28.95 mm
Thickness: 2.12 mm
Power Reserve: 55 hours
Winding: Manual
Frequency: 3 Hz (21,600 vph)
Jewels: 22

Pricing & Availability

Price: $1,150,000
Limited Edition: 80 pieces

For more, click here.

A day later because of the holiday weekend here in the States, but we're back with another episode of Hodinkee Radio. In addition to the podcast feed, each episode also has video, so swing by Hodinkee's YouTube channel (or watch below). Only want the audio? It's being published to the same old Hodinkee Radio feed, so check your feeds or subscribe wherever you find your podcasts (might we recommend Apple Podcasts, Stitcher, Spotify, or TuneIn).

In this week's episode, I'm running the three-man weave with Ben and James. I gave the guys a bit of homework before we recorded. Last month, Ben mentioned in his review of the Rolex "Le Mans" Daytona that maybe we should do "A Week On (An Owner's) Wrist" reviews every once in a while. Talking about – and reviewing – watches that we've recently acquired. I thought it was a pretty good idea (nice, Ben!), so I called him up and said, "Let's do it on the pod!" Of course, I had to get James in the mix as well to keep us grounded in reality (and Seiko). So, each of us came ready to talk about two watches we've recently acquired. Why did we buy them, what did we like about them, and what would we change if we could? We cover basically the entire range of watches, from Swatch to Seiko to maybe the hottest indie around. 

Show Notes

1:30:
Financial Times Luxury Live Summit

3:00:
In-Depth: Marc Newson Opens Up About Ikepod, The Pathbreaking '90s Watch Brand That's Cool All Over Again

Marc Newson Hourglass for Hodinkee

6:30:
Ben's Watch Spotting at the Universal Geneve Meetup That Tony Definitely Read

7:50:
Wind Vintage Universal Geneve Film Compax

9:40:
Hands-On With (That Other) Universal Genve Film Compax

10:50:
Ben's A Week On The Wrist With The Le Mans Daytona

14:50:
James' A Week On The Wrist With The Tudor Pelagos 39 

16:40:
Blancpain x Swatch Fifty Fathoms Ocean of Storms 

21:50:
The Unimatic Carbon Limited Editions for Hodinkee 

23:45:
Hodinkee's first capsule collection with Unimatic

24:35:
The 36mm Unimatic Modello Cinque

24:50:
The Unimatic x Massena Lab Modello Cinque

26:10:
Introducing: Rexhep Rexhepi Returns With A Sequel To The Award-Winning Chronomètre Contemporain

27:00:
Ben's November 2023 Photo Report from Geneva

29:28:
In-Depth: Gruebel Forsey Signature 1

32:15:
Only Watch 2024 Auction Results

34:00:
Hands-On: Swatch Adds Six Watches To Its Neon Collection Just In Time For Summer

38:10:
Watches in the Wild: Thailand: Episode 1

38:45:
Hodinkee's 10 Favorite Seikos of All Time 

40:40:
James' Review Of The New Seiko "24MAS" Divers

42:58:
James' A Week On The Wrist With the Seiko SPB143

44:30:
Cartier Brings Back The Tortue, Monopusher And All

47:00:
A Collector's Guide To 1970s Cartier Watches